When my bus tour arrived at the geyser site (where I saw Strokkur
erupt three times), the tour guide announced that we were there on the first day that the farmers from the surrounding area were, with dubious legal sanction, charging admission. We got out of the bus, and along with everyone else (the contents of several buses) I approached the chilled men and women in waterproof coveralls standing at the roped-off entrance. Their level of organization fascinated me. Tickets, brochures, and wireless debit machines were produced from their fanny packs. Were they that eager, or that resentful? I smiled awkwardly, paid my 700 ISK, made my way along paths beside bubbling pots in the earth, took my pictures.